Not wanting to publicize online that I was going out-of-town, you probably did not know that I spent much of the second full week of May on the Outer Banks of North Carolina. Having been there some 25 years ago, a return trip was on my and my sister’s “bucket lists.”
We packed so much into our trip that I decided to divide this “travelogue” into two parts. I will share Part II with you on Monday, June 3 and shift my usual “what I read last month” post to Monday, June 10.
Our departure was delayed by 24 hours by a storm that knocked out our electricity for 21 hours and took down literally hundreds of tree limbs in our yard. Yard clean up and some adjustments in our itinerary and reservations meant that we were exhausted when we finally left home, but the trip was salvaged. (And yard clean-up has continued since we returned home. Such is life when you live out in the country and have a yard full of large, old trees.)
The Outer Banks of North Carolina
The Outer Banks of North Carolina (often abbreviated as “OBX” these days) are truly a national natural treasure. They are a 120-mile-long string of barrier islands known as “The Graveyard of the Atlantic.”
Off Cape Hatteras is where the cold waters of the Labrador Stream collide with the warm water of the Gulf Stream. The clashing water and wind there constantly change to shape of the islands. It is said that the only constant on the Outer Banks is that they are constantly changing.
The massive sand dunes at Jockey’s Ridge are in a constant state of flux and shifts in height due to the wind. There’s a reason why the Wright Brothers decided to try out their “flying machine” there at Kitty Hawk in 1903. It seems like the wind never stops blowing.
To give you an example of the changes Mother Nature makes in the islands, the third (and present) Bodie (pronounced “body”) Island Lighthouse was completed in 1872 near the tip of Oregon Inlet. The lighthouse has never moved, but it is now two miles from the inlet! (https://www.nps.gov/caha/planyourvisit/bils.htm)
The northern end of the Outer Banks
We knew the northern end of the Outer Banks had been highly developed since we were last there, but it was worse than we anticipated. It’s unfortunate that vacationers and summer-only residents wanted all the conveniences of home. Whether they wanted that or not, that’s what they got.
North from Whalebone Junction to Corolla is wall-to-wall development. It’s a shame what has been built on such a fragile sliver of the coast. The Nags Head Woods Preserve (https://www.nature.org/en-us/get-involved/how-to-help/places-we-protect/nags-head-woods-ecological-preserve/
is still there protecting Jockey’s Ridge – the tallest living sand dunes in eastern United States. You can try your hand at learning to hang glide at Jockey’s Ridge State Park. (https://www.ncparks.gov/state-parks/jockeys-ridge-state-park)
There used to be miles of vacant land between Kitty Hawk and Duck and Corolla with the Spanish now-wild horses roaming freely. Now there’s a town called Southern Shores which runs into Duck which runs into Corolla. Multimillion dollar homes line NC Highway 12 and leave no vacant land.
The wild horses that have lived there for 400 years have now been corralled and fenced just north of Corolla for their own safety and one must pay a tour company big bucks to ride in a Hummer or a Jeep for a couple of hours in hopes of catching a glimpse of a few of those magnificent animals. We chose not to do that. We choose to remember them the way they used to be. Be sure and visit the gift shop of the Corolla Wild Horse Fund, Inc. (https://www.corollawildhorses.com/) where all proceeds support the maintenance and health of the wild horses.
At the north end of NC-12 there is a tiny parking lot. From there, one can hike and perhaps see some wild horses, but the lot was full when we were there.
We wanted to see the Currituck Beach Lighthouse again. (We love lighthouses!) Due to the growth of surrounding trees and the residential and commercial development in the last 25 years, the lighthouse at Corolla was more difficult to find than it was in the past. Nevertheless, we enjoyed seeing it one last time. (https://obcinc.org/currituck-beach-lighthouse/)
Meanwhile, traveling back south to Nags Head and Manteo…
Even if you aren’t interested in fishing, you might enjoy a stroll on Jennette’s Pier https://www.ncaquariums.com/jennettes-pier) at Nags Head. Associated with North Carolina Aquariums, this 1,000-foot-long concrete pier is a nice way to spend a few minutes or more. Fees are charged for fishing, but for $2.00 you can walk the pier and spend as much time as you like enjoying the views of the ocean and beach. The pier and its wooden predecessors have an interesting history.
We also enjoyed the North Carolina Aquarium (https://www.ncaquariums.com/roanoke-island) at Manteo on Roanoke Island. In the summer months there is a famous outdoor drama, “The Lost Colony” on Roanoke Island. That’s where North Carolina native Andy Griffith got his start in acting.
If you plan to visit the Outer Banks to see their stark beauty and leave some of the conveniences of home … well, at home, I recommend you spend two or three days on the northern banks if you must so you can visit the Wright Brothers National Memorial (https://www.nps.gov/wrbr/index.htm)
and the natural grandeur of Jockey’s Ridge,
the NC Aquarium,
and Jennette’s Pier,
but then leave the traffic and hubbub behind and drive south from Whalebone Junction into the Cape Hatteras National Seashore.
Please read my June 3, 2024 blog post to learn about my favorite part of the Outer Banks – the peaceful, wild, and beautiful southern end.
Until my next blog post
I hope you have a good book to read.
Remember the people of Ukraine.
Thank you for taking the time to read my blog! When you have a couple of minutes, I invite you to visit my website to see what I was doing prior to my trip and the types of writing I plan to continue to do: https://www.janetmorrisonbooks.com.
Janet
Janet's Writing Blog 